This is...Sarajevo

After a hearty, pork-free smoked beef and egg breakfast at the Halvat, whose hospitality began to reach the reputation it has gained among travel bloggers and guidebook writers (and at EUR 45 a night, represents astounding value), Sarajevo beckoned. Though again encountering low cloud, the overcast sky yielded a heightened sense of the intricate architectural detail that is Sarajevo's old market.

I tend to like experiencing the features of daily life in new places the most: looking at how brands appear in supermarkets and kiosks, seeing which football teams appear on the shirt and scarf racks of the stalls selling knockoffs (here, a clear emphasis on local teams like Sarajevo FC), and the slogans on the t-shirts (you still see Che, but my favorite by far said "I'm Muslim, Don't Panic"). So, where did I pay custom first? A barbershop. No great conversation, as the barber spoke only Bosnian aside from pleasantries and prices: But the price was convincing: EUR 3, to which I added a 1 Euro tip.

Cevapi are this town's local fast food of choice, the Chicago Hot Dog of the Balkans, though resembling Turkish Kofta more than Windy City 'bockwurst'. Cevapi stands here are packed, and a small portion set me back EUR 1.50. Barely seasoned, they are a delivery system for the flavors of beef and charcoal, served with naan-like Bosnian pita.Traveling in a snowstorm can be every bit as exhilirating as doing so in fair weather, but one's range is limited. Hilly residential neighborhoods so inviting in spring or summer seem forbidding and potentially slippery. While a takeaway double espresso does fine in fine weather, today's chill called for the hard stuff indoors, Bosanska Kava, the local take on Turkish Coffee.