Sunday, December 23, 2007

Downshifting in Zagreb

...Given that all forces in the Universe have equal and opposite reactions, my superb day of exploring Zagreb, which had been capped off with a pilgrimage to Dinamo Zagreb's home stadium, the Maksimir, would inevitably turn south. Reaching my room at the Arcotel Allegra, it dawned on me that my Lonely Planet Western Balkans guide is probably headed back to Munich in last night's sleeper train, and with it were my prospects for dining and nightlife well trodden by fellow English speakers.

...After substituting my missing Lonely Planet with the "pay to play" local guide offered by the Arcotel (where included establishments purchased access to wayward foreigners like myself), I came to count the cost when the restaurant I happened upon wouldn't prepare the specialty of the house (lamb 'isod peke', roasted in an iron oven under hot coals) because I'd neglected to order it two hours in advance. Thus I make do with a schnitzel, less exciting since I'd had one the night before in Munich.

..But the appetizer of fried smelt is turning my spirits around. As for the meal, a veal steak (the Munich schnitzel being turkey) covered in garlic, it was ok and filling, and left me in the mood for something other than carousing.

...I therefore headed home, noting that the $8 return metered taxi fare was less than the $15 I paid to head in the initial direction.Nightlife was a dvd I brought with me, The Good Shepherd, intentionally watched with Dutch subtitles so I don't go completely Slavic during my travels. Tomorrow would be spent in another country. And, having found melatonin in a Zagreb pharmacy, sleep would be mine tonight.

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